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ICH Safeguarding Activities of the Tai Lue community in Nan Province

ICH Safeguarding Activities of the Tai Lue community in Nan Province

Volume 63 · June 2025

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Volume 63 · June 2025

인쇄
T
he Baan Phayao Woven Fabric Group was founded by community members in Ban Phayao, Wiang Sa District, Nan Province, Thailand, as an initiative to generate income through the preservation and development of the community’s cultural capital.
Mr. Nikorn Palangrit, the group’s leader and one of the rare male weavers in a field traditionally dominated by women, explained: “Our group highlights the unique cultural heritage of our community, particularly the weaving of traditional clothing. We specialize in the ancient nam lhai pattern, a flowing water motif that can be found depicted on the mural walls of historic temples in Nan Province. We have adopted this design as our signature weaving style. Our main products include traditional local attire and pha sin (traditional tube skirts).”
This group also exemplifies the use of cultural capital to adapt to the growing challenges posed by climate change. Ms.Kanjana Lomsombut, a member of the group, elaborated on the impacts: “Initially, the members were mostly elderly women who viewed weaving as a hobby. When Mr. Nikorn became the leader and helped market and sell the products, our textiles gained popularity, especially during the government’s campaign promoting the wearing of traditional clothing. Our products were popular because of their distinctive handwoven patterns. However, in recent years, sales have declined, particularly among younger consumers who no longer favor traditional attire. The thick fabric, which retains heat and does not ventilate well, has become increasingly impractical given the rising temperatures associated with global warming.”
To address these challenges stemming from climate change, the group participated in the Koyori Project, a collaborative initiative organized by Rajamangala University of Technology Lanna and the Lanna Craft Cultural Association. The term ‘Koyori’ originates from Japanese and refers to a resilient cord formed by twisting strands together, symbolizing the strength and unity that emerge through collaboration. The project was designed to enhance the creative and problem-solving capacities of artisan groups by fostering cooperation between local artisans, professional designers, and university students from design programs. Over a four-month period, team members

The traditional nam lhai pattern has been transformed into a modern and transparent design using a new tapestry weaving technique. Instead of filling the pattern with different colors of weft yarn, the weft yarn has been omitted to create an open space effect. This results in a lighter and airier fabric that is versatile and suitable for fashionable clothing in hot and humid climates © Suraphon Chaiwongsar
The traditional nam lhai pattern has been transformed into a modern and transparent design using a new tapestry weaving technique. Instead of filling the pattern with different colors of weft yarn, the weft yarn has been omitted to create an open space effect. This results in a lighter and airier fabric that is versatile and suitable for fashionable clothing in hot and humid climates © Suraphon Chaiwongsar


The transparent nam lhai fabric is designed with a solid-color and modern minimalist style, making it versatile for use in tops, bottoms, and coats, which received positive market feedback © Suraphon Chaiwongsar
The transparent nam lhai fabric is designed with a solid-color and modern minimalist style, making it versatile for use in tops, bottoms, and coats, which received positive market feedback © Suraphon Chaiwongsar

worked collectively to co-create a new product collection that responded to the group’s challenges while aligning with current market trends. Participants shared their knowledge and expertise and were also provided with training in creative and design thinking as well as marketing strategies.
Mr. Nikorn Palangrit further explained the outcomes of participating in the Koyori Project, which aimed to address the group’s challenges. “Our group collaborated with Thai and Japanese designers, as well as design students from both countries, to tackle the key question: how could we adapt traditional local clothing to be more suitable for hot climates? Ultimately, we jointly developed a new interpretation of the traditional nam lhai pattern, which features bold colors and geometric forms. We evolved this into a ‘transparent nam lhai pattern,’ designed to be soft, fluid, and breathable, providing comfort in high temperatures. We combined traditional weaving wisdom with newly developed techniques co-created by the group, which led to a new dimension in handwoven textiles. The resulting fabrics are more lightweight and breathable and feature pastel or monochromatic color schemes that better match current market trends.”
The innovative design was scientifically verified for its cooling properties and subsequently developed into a textile innovation titled “Cooling Handwoven Fabric with Transparent Nam Lhai Pattern.” The product received a Gold Medal at the 2023 Hong Kong International Invention and Design Competition. Ms. Phim Janduang, another group member, shared her appreciation of the project’s success: “The newly developed transparent nam lhai fabrics have been well-received by customers for their originality, modern appearance, and improved comfort. The products have attracted high demand, to the point where production could barely keep up with orders. However, this has been a welcome challenge, as it has significantly increased the group’s income. Most importantly, we are proud that the nam lhai motif has gained recognition and relevance in today’s evolving fashion market. Additionally, the Nan Provincial Government officially designated our group as the representative body responsible for designing the province’s official local attire with our nam lhai pattern to be worn by civil servants.
Looking ahead, the group remains confident in its ability to continue developing innovative products that draw upon local cultural capital while meeting evolving market demands. Furthermore, the group is committed to becoming a model of regenerative craft entrepreneurship, aiming to revitalize the local economy and contribute to improving the environment simultaneously. Mr. Nikorn Palangrit elaborated: “We are continuously striving to innovate. In the incorporating fibers made from recycled plastic bottles into our weaving process. This approach allows us to preserve cultural heritage, restore local identity, and embrace true environmental sustainability.”
The results of the Koyori Project have demonstrated not only the enhancement of participants’ skills and the co-creation of innovative products, but also the cultivation of a strong sense of identity pride. This pride serves as a catalyst for leveraging cultural capital to drive local economic development and ensure the creative preservation of cultural heritage within the community for future generations.
The success of the Koyori Project was made possible throu-gh support from the National Research Council of Thailand, the Ministry of Higher Education, Science, Research and Innovation, and the Creative Economy Agency. Yip In Tsoi & Co. Limited further promoted the project through the Koyori television series, which was broadcast nationally on Thai PBS.